1 July, 2024

Last night we had thunderstorms so today it’s overcast with a top forecast of 19 degrees, a drop of 12 degrees! Brrrr!

Klaipėda (formerly Memel) is an historic and relatively tranquil port city on Lithuania’s Baltic coast. Since it was first mentioned in historic records in 1252, it has variously been governed by the Teutonic Knights, the Kingdom of Prussia, the German Empire, and the Soviet Red Army.

Thanks to its historic role as one of the foremost ice-free ports in the Eastern Baltic, Klaipėda has long been an important maritime location, with large shipyards and fishing ports. In more recent years, visitors have come here to enjoy the nearby white sand beaches and the city’s numerous theatres, museums, historic sites, and traditional breweries [atlasobscura.com].

Speaking of beaches, there is also a nudist beach (Smiltyne nudistu papludimys) located on the spit of land that stretches from Klaipeda to Kaliningrad (Russia) to the south. The spit can only be accessed by ferry. A review described the beach as: “…nude, angry, baboushka beach!” Don’t think we’ll be going there any time soon.

The house in which our apartment is located (side, middle row, 3 windows at left) was built in 1783 by the carpenter Goblieb Dietz – a fachwerk type and trapezoidal form building. Over the years it suffered from fire.

In 1983 it was decided to rebuild it using as much of the original material as possible such as old bricks (authentic bricks of nearby Klaipeda Castle) and wooden beams. Special attention was paid to the building’s windows, reconstructed with their original dimensions, binding types and locks as these windows were characteristic of the Klaipeda region in the 18th century.

A traditional exterior but our apartment is spacious, modern and tastefully decorated with parquetry floors and with the original hewn timber beams exposed.

After a late breakfast we go for a bit of a stroll through parts of the Old Town. We call into ‘Cremia’ cafe and gelateria on Theatre Square for a morning coffee. It’s also a bakery where we can see tall trolleys laden with trays of freshly-baked bread plus delicious pastries on display. Damn fine coffee as well.

Strolling up Turgaus Street we pass by a somewhat alarming sign. From what we saw last night, several of the young waitresses in town have already heeded the message.

While we were staying in Liepaja, our hotel room overlooked the canal where, for several days 2 tall-masted sailing ships were moored, then they disappeared. Looks like they were headed here to Klaipeda for the weekend.

Further up the street is a vacant block of land with a large bell and poster of a church. Apparently an appeal to the locals to donate to the restoration of St John’s Evangelical Lutheran Church which stood on this spot from 1696 until 1854 when it was burnt down. And again during its 1856-58 reconstruction when a 75m tower was completed in 1864. At the end of WWII the damaged church was demolished.

At the end of Turgaus Street we come to the grassy city bastions on the banks of the Dane River.

Cutting across the tip of one of the bastions we arrive at the path where the ‘Meridianas’ tall ship with its transparent sails is docked, today housing a restaurant.

Crossing the nearby Birzos Tiltas brings us to the opposite shore and the parkland of Danish Square (Danes skveras). At its entrance is the arka paminklas vieningai Lietuvai – the monument to a united Lithuania.

From here we walk back across the bridge and down Tiltu gatve (Bridge Street) where we see an assortment of building styles.

We’re puzzled, as while we’ve been walking through the Old Town we haven’t seen examples of the German-style, 18th-century wood-framed buildings that the Old Town is known for.

We see the Puppet Theatre on Vezeju Street, and nothing on Aukstoji Street, north of Darzu Street, which runs parallel to our street.

It’s not until we walk towards the northern end of Aukstoji Street, towards the quaint single-story building with painted wooden window shutters at No. 5 …

… that we come across what appears to be a former warehouse. Still, only a handful of wood-framed buildings.

Around 7:00 pm we head into the Old Town to find a restaurant. En route we walk past a rather intriguing tall, metal box with reliefs. In this town of multiple sculptures it’s surprising that there is no mention as to what it represents other than its date of 1990.

As we haven’t had Mexican for a while we choose the restaurant ‘Casa de Locos’ which is over several floors. The building appears to be a repurposed industrial space.

Turns out to be ‘Mexican, but not as we know it’, rather a somewhat Lithuanian spin on Mexican cuisine. We finally settle on tacos as the waiter’s description of these seems to be as close to what we understand what a taco is and its traditional fillings.

At least nothing has been lost in translation with their Margaritas!

2 July, 2024

99% chance of rain is the forecast today so after breakfast we walk to the river then turn left under the Pilies Bridge and walk towards the spit.

At the beginning of the 18th century castle ditches were used as ports for ships and timber, so there was a need to dig a narrow canal to connect to the river Danė. Over this narrow canal a small, revolving bridge was built by a wealthy merchant that leased the castle ditches. In 1839 the bridge was reconstructed and replaced in 1885 by a new metal portal drawbridge – the Chain Bridge [krastogidas.lt].

On the other side of the Chain Bridge is a sculpture, ‘The Black Ghost of Klaipeda’ which is crawling out of the water of the narrow canal and up the side of the dock. There seems to be something in the Baltic States’ psyche that relates to these spectral, faceless and hooded forms.

The sculpture represents a character from the legend of Klaipėda. According to the book “Rytprūsių padavimai“ in the evening of 19 February 1595, when Hans von Heidi, one of the guards at Klaipėda Castle, was doing his nightly rounds near the harbor.

From out of nowhere, a hooded figure appeared near the water’s edge. Rather than attack the startled guard, it asked him how the city’s supplies of grain and timber were holding out. Von Heidi informed the ghost that the city had sufficient supplies, but the ghost warned him it would not be enough. At that point, the apparition vanished.

Back in the good old days, of course, people were inclined to believe the words of ghosts, witches, goblins, and giants. And so Hans von Heidi dutifully informed his superiors of his ghostly encounter, and the city set about increasing its supplies of timber and grain. Then followed a bleak few years of hunger and shortage, which the people of Klaipėda only survived because of the ghost’s warning [atlasobscura.com].

As we turn to walk back to Theatre Square and the Cremia Cafe it starts to rain – bang on 10.15 am as predicted by the weather forecast. It rains for the rest of the day so we spend it indoors catching up with stuff.

Earlier we had walked past Restorans Katpedele on the riverbank so we return there tonight for dinner. Lynn chooses homemade sausages with mash, sauerkraut and mustard while I choose crumbed pork chop with salad and fries accompanied by a half carafe of red. Quite satisfying, athtough it took a whlle for our order to arrive and there weren’t that many in the restaurant.

Perhaps that should have been a clue when we then ordered dessert as it took 55 minutes for it to arrive! On the menu it said “Austriskas Strudelis su Varske” and without even using Google Translate you could see it said “Austrian Strudel”, although the menu’s translation said “Australian Studel with Curd”. It was nothing like an Austrian, or even an Australian, strudel!

3 July, 2024

Another 19 degree day but with 85% less chance of rain so we jump in the car and drive the half hour back up the coast to Palanga – the resort town we drove through on our way to Klaipeda but couldn’t find anywhere to park.

This time we actually find a paid parking bay and purchase, coins only, an hour’s worth of time from the meter on A. Mickeviciaus g., a block away from J. Basanaviciaus g., the main drag. Believably, there are more than 100 cafes on this street. Here we walk up the street which leads to the beach and directly onto the pier.

Located on the shores of the Baltic Sea, Palanga is a seaside resort town and is the biggest and busiest summer resort in the country, located only 29km from Klaipėda.

Originally a fishing village, Palanga was first mentioned in written sources in the 12th century. The inhabitants were not only engaged in fishing, but they also collected amber, which reached the distant countries of Europe and Asia via trade routes. Which explains the presence of an Amber Museum in the town’s Botanical Garden.

This museum was built by Feliksas Tiskevicius in 189. The museum displays what is said to be the 6th-largest collection of Baltic gold in the world – some 20,000 pieces in all. The exhibits span from the origins of amber and its early use in Neolithic times to the eye-catching contemporary jewelry of today.

In the 19th century, Palanga began to develop into a spa town, which was a great merit of the dynasty of Count Tiškevičius (Tyszkiewicz), who moved to the town at that time. A park was created, a new palace was built, a harbor was established, a center for natural medicine was launched, a new church was built, and then the pier was erected. The first national play in Lithuania, America pirtyje (America in the Bath) by A. Keturakis, was performed here in 1899.

Where Palanga is located on the Lithuanian seacoast it’s famous for its white sand and dune beaches, something that cannot be found anywhere else on the coast Baltic Sea.

The sandy coast stretches for 10 km and is surrounded by a pine forest and dunes.

The Palangos Tiltas is a 470 m long, L-shaped pier that is one of the main attractions of Palanga. It has a view over the dunes, the beach and the sea and in the evening the path is illuminated by lanterns.

The pier was built in the 19th century as a wharf to allow Palanga to handle watercraft. Frequent sandstorms and hurricanes eventually destroyed the building, but at the end of the 20th century, the pier was restored by means of more durable materials.

Interesting facts: in the Palanga pharmacy, Griūningas invented and patented the famous mixture of 27-year-old Lithuanian herbs: “Three Nine” (Žalios Devynerios). The pharmacy also used to sell hanger blood, mummy powder, and wolf claws.

In 1919, after the breakup of the Russian Empire, Palanga became a part of Latvia, like the rest of the Courland Governorate. Until 1921, Lithuanians fought with Latvians over Palanga, but eventually Palanga was passed to Lithuania.

Driving back out of town we pass by the extensive Botanic Gardens on our right, which border the beach. The Tiškevičiai Palace’s park was converted into a botanical garden in 1960. Today it contains 200 different types of trees and shrubs, including an oak tree planted by President Antanas Smetona [adventures.com/baltic-countries/attractions/cities-towns/palanga].

Driving towards the river on our return to Klaipeda we’re confronted with the 2-odd shaped, modern buildings that comprise the 4* Amberton Hotel. The main building has 122 rooms, and the K-centre (K-shaped) building has 96 with a view of the sea and the Curonian Lagoon.

The 72m-high K-centre has already become a symbol of Klaipėda, which can be seen both when entering the city by car and when entering the port by boat. The building is decorated with red clinker bricks and glass and metal structures reminiscent of the half-timbered style, suggesting a link between the Old Town and the Town Hall micro-district, which are separated by the Dane River.

We return to the Lithuanian-food restaurant on Theatre Square (Teatro Aikste) for dinner. As early as the 17th century various plays were performed in the theatre square by passing actors [klaipedatravel.lt].

Tomorrow we are moving away from the western coast and venturing SE into the interior of the country to Kaunus.

4 July, 2024

Not only is it American Independence Day today, it’s also the UK elections where it is predicted that Labour will win with a landslide after 14 years of Tory rule. (Spoiler alert: they did.)

We depart at 11:00 am and drive the 2215/A1/1922 to the village of Raudondvaris, 15 minutes’ drive NW of Kaunas.

En route we drive through undulating countryside with meadows, wheat, hay, cabbages and corn and lots of storks, either in nests or grazing in fields or, more likely, on the grass verge of the motorway. Surprising there isn’t more roadkill, but does explain the cabbage patches.

About an hour into the journey we see a sign for the slip road onto the A12 which will take you the 74km to the Russian border of Kaliningrad.

The main item of interest in Raudondvaris is its manor – the beginning of 17th century Renaissance architecture in Lithuania. The manor overlooks on the right bank of the upper terrace of the river Nevėžis near the confluence of the Nemunas and Nevėžis, 12 km from Kaunas. The main building is the castle-palace with a tower. The estate, together with 3.8 hectares of park and 2 office buildings, an orangery, stables and an ice-house, make up the complex.

Historians claim that the castle started being built by Kaunas chamberlain, Wojciech Dzewaltowski in the 2nd half of the 16th century. Later the castle estate was owned by a number of prominent Lithuanian nobility.

After the fire in 1831 where the wooden castle buildings were burned, Count Emmanuel Benedykt Tyszkiewicz built a new brick mansion. During this period there were working well-known architects: Lithuanian Margevičius John, Jacob Wöhler from Prussia and Italian Laurus Caesar Anikini. When the castle has been managed by Tyszkiewicz it became a luxurious residence with huge paintings, art works, rare books and exotic plant and animal collections.

Now the main manor house (castle), stables, an ice-house and orangery are restored and adapted for cultural tourism. The ice-house opened in 2011 where the Kaunas region tourism information centre is located. The Orangery opened in 2012 and became a restaurant with banquet halls. The castle is open for guests since June 2012 and works as the Palace of Culture and Arts. Here takes place civil marriages, conferences, concerts, presentations, commemorations of statehood day. In 2015 the reconstructed and extensive brick stables were adapted for the Arts with a theatre and concert hall of 500 seats and residential premises for young artists from all regions of Lithuania [raudondvariodvaras.lt].

The other item of interest is the Church of St Theresa of the Child Jesus which is located a couple of blocks away.

The old brick Raudondvaris church that used to be in the place of the current one was among the most decorative ones in the country. Construction according to the design of the Italian architect Lorenzo Cesare Anichini took place during 1846-57. The church funder was Count Benediktas Emanuelis Tiskevicius. A chapel-mausoleum with crypt was added to the end of the church where the deceased members of the Tiskevicius family were buried.

During WWI both the towers and the entire church were bombed completely. The current parish brick church was built in the interwar period from parishioners’ donations. The church with Baroque and Renaissance styles was finished in 1938. During WWII the church suffered some damage and was later restored.

The church is rich in sacred art. Paintings of Stations of the Cross by A. Slodzinskis, paintings “Virgin Mary with the Child” and “The Death of St Joseph” by G Berti. Tiskevicius family members rest in the church yard [information board].

Shortly after we arrive at the apartment around 2:00 pm. It’s spacious, modern, on the 4th floor with loads of skylights and a view of the Nemunas River on 1 side and the tiled roofs of Old Town residences on the other. The view comes with a price in terms of me lugging 2x suitcases up those stairs and Lynn limping behind.

Not to worry, we quickly turn on the AC full blast, unpack and put on a load of washing before we venture up the street to the local supermarket. Later we walk up the block to Vilnius gatve, the main drag of the Old Town and also its restaurant street.

We are spoilt for choice but the menu and the al fresco dining area of Casa della Pasta tempt us on this balmy evening. Great choice – food and wine as good as you’d get in Italy.

5 July, 2024

It’s been 4 weeks to the day since Lynn injured her knee and it’s almost better but, unbelievably, she manages to tweak it again last night so it’s back to being painful and swollen this morning.

Undaunted, she straps on her heavy-duty knee brace, pops a couple of pain killers and we slowly make our way to the meeting point of our next GuruWalk, “Hidden Gems of Kaunas”, for 11:00 am.

It seems that Kaunas has quite the sense of humour, as illustrated by its numerous whimsical sculptures that inhabit the town.

Our meeting point is at the monument of Grand Duke Vytautas at the junction of L. Sapiegos g. and Laisves al.

Kaunas was once a castle then a fortress city and later it became the cultural and political centre of Lithuania. First mentioned in 1361 when the Teutonic Order was preparing to attack Kaunas Castle. The city’s history, however, started in 1408, when Grand Duke Vytautas granted its citizens the privilege of self-government based on Magdeburg Law. Thus the community of free and economically-independent merchants and craftsmen was legalised, responsible directly to the ruler.

In June 1812 Napoleon with his army of about 220,000 started crossing the Nemunas by pontoon bridges. 6 months later he returned, retreating to France, having lost the war in Russia.

During WWI Kaunas was occupied by Germans in 1915–1918. After the war, Vilnius was taken by Bolsheviks, and later by Poles, so Kaunas was a provisional capital of Lithuania from early January, 1919 to October, 1939 during which time it was modernized.

On 15 June 1940 the Soviet Union occupied Lithuania. In a year’s time, on 22 June the war between the Soviet Union and Germany broke out, and the following day an uprising was organised by the Lithuanian Activist Front (LAF), which soon spread across Lithuania. The activists, from Kaunas radio station, declared restoration of independence and formation of a provisional government. After the Germans entered Kaunas on 25 June the Provisional Government was dissolved on 5 August – only 6 weeks of independence.

On August 1, 1944, Kaunas was re-taken by the Soviet Army, beginning the second Soviet occupation. Kaunas became the major centre of resistance. From the very start of the Lithuanian guerrilla war, the most important guerrilla districts – Tauro, Prisikėlimo, Didžiosios Kovos – were based around Kaunas. In July 1945, the Declaration of the Lithuanian Nation was proclaimed in Kauna.

On All Souls’ Day in 1955, the 1st public anti-Soviet rally took place in Kaunas. On 14 May 1972, 19-year-old Romas Kalanta, having exclaimed “Freedom for Lithuania!“, immolated himself in front of the then city Executive Committee building. The event led to total passive resistance all around Lithuania.

Lithuania declared the sovereignty of its territory on 18 May 1989 and declared independence from the Soviet Union on 11 March 1990 as the Republic of Lithuania.

Around the corner on Maironio g. is Lietuvos bankas, the Bank of Lithuania. It’s the Lithuanian member of the Eurosystem and has been the monetary authority for Lithuania from 1922 to 2014, issuing the Lithuanian litas, albeit with a long suspension between 1940 and 1993. Since 2015, it has also been Lithuania’s national competent authority within the European Banking Supervision.

The Bank of Lithuania was 1st established in Kaunas on 27 September 1922. Its 1st task was to replace German ostmark and ostrubel, which circulated after WWI with a Lithuanian currency litas. In 1931, the bank became a member of the Bank for International Settlements (BIS) organization. Fortunately, during the German and Soviet occupations, both used the building as a bank so the building, and its interior, remain unchanged since 1922.

Today its primary functions are: maintaining price stability, formulating and implementing the monetary policy of the eurozone, and acting as an agent of the State Treasury.

Nearby we come to a residential block and our guide points out 3 narrow recesses which have been bricked in with different coloured bricks to the rest of the building. Back in the day, before refrigeration, there were windows here which kept the contents of the cupboard inside, cold.

On E. Ozeskienes g. there is the “In the Yard Gallery”.

This is a very particular museum in the centre of Kaunas, located in the courtyard of a residential building.

The gallery’s creator, artist Vytenis Yakas, started to highlight the problem of alienation of people and neighbors over a decade ago.

On the walls, you can see the stories of the inhabitants of this courtyard, which was once a part of the Jewish ghetto.

These stories are mostly not so jolly, even tragic, some narrate about the WWII and the Holocaust.

But despite this, the gallery has become a favorite meeting place for neighbors, artists, citizens and tourists [visitbaltics.net].

And celebrations – weddings, babies …

At the end of the street we arrive at St Gertrude’s Church (Kauno Sv. Gertrudos baznycia). This church, which is one of the oldest churches in Lithuania, was built during the 2nd half of the 15th century. This small sacral building is a nationally significant monument of Gothic architecture.

The crucifix, which has been preserved there for several hundreds of years, is the Church’s most valuable object. There is a small candle shrine in a rear basement, alongside a newly-built one, to accommodate all the donors who wish to light a candle that burns for 7 days in support of a specific prayer [visit.kaunas.lt].

From here we cross under Gimnazijos g. and enter the Old Town. We are on Vilniaus g. where there is a sculpture of a boy on a bike with a dog. Not by chance this sculpture was chosen by Kęstutis Balčiūnas – the sculptor aimed to humorously represent Kaunas Old Town urban development by unfolding one historical period of the street where the sculpture is located.

The brick-paved road that the boy is riding on sweeps under an adjoining building, the paving indicating the original direction of the oldest street in Kaunas, part of the Middle Ages road from Kaunas Castle to Vilnius [en.kaunas.lt].

Our last stop is 500m away at the Cathedral Basilica of Apostles St Peter and St Paul (Kauno sv. Petro ir Povilo arkikatedra bazilika), the only church in the Gothic style of basilica design and the biggest building of Gothic sacral type in Lithuania. But before we get there we all have to take shelter in one of the many courtyard archways for 5 minutes while a torrential rain shower passes.

Although the Cathedral was built in the 15th century, it was reconstructed several times and acquired Renaissance, Baroque, Classicism, Neo-Gothic and Neo-Baroque architectural features. In fact, the monumental and rather severe style of the current basilica is transitional between gothic and renaissance.

The Cathedral has 9 altars, the newest of which is that of Pope John Paul II with the saint’s relics (blood) and a painting.

Pope John Paul II visited Kaunas during his apostolic trip to the Baltic States in 1993, just 3 years after Lithuania became a republic and so this church is included in John Paul II’s Pilgrimage Road.

The Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament is extremely original; it’s like a small church, in the church, decorating the Cathedral with its wooden interior [visit.kaunas.lt].

During the walk 1 of the group, Katherine, has struck up a conversation with us, noticing from my vest that we come from Brisbane. So at the end of the walk we, Katherine, her husband Kevin and daughter Caroline head off for lunch together in the nearby Town Hall Square.

As Ken and Katherine live in Tucson AZ and Caroline lives and works in Bangkok, Thailand, they use opportunities to meet up somewhere in the world and travel together.

After several hours of sharing travel experiences we part company with the promise that when we finally get to Tucson we’ll call in to see them, and vice versa for their potential visit to Brisbane. So nice when we meet kindred travelers along the way!

6 July, 2024

After 2 busy days it’s time for a lie-in and a day to catch up which is just as well as it’s 27 degrees out and we have AC!

After several attempts in these 3 Baltic States, finally we get to have burritos, at Mad Brothers.

And apparently today, 6 July, the whole of Lithuania commemorates and celebrates Statehood Day (the coronation of the only Lithuanian King Mindaugas on 6 July 1253) and the National Anthem. As we are about to hit the sack at 10:40 pm we hear then see some fireworks but sadly they aren’t all that effective as the evening sky is still light as sunset wasn’t until 10:00 pm.

7 July, 2024

It’s predicted to be 27 degrees and to rain after 1:00 pm so we head out the door to view a couple more sights.

Firstly, Kaunas Castle which is a 10-minute walk away.

On approach to the Castle is the usual city sign …

… and an interesting-looking sculpture. It’s entitled ‘Kanklininkas’ – a man playing the kanklės, a traditional Lithuanian plucked string musical instrument, of the zither family. It was sculpted by Robertas Antinis in 1968.

Kaunas Castle, at the confluence of the Nemunas and Neris Rivers, was built in the 14th century to repel Crusader attacks. It is not only the oldest brick castle in Lithuania, but also the only one with two rows of defensive walls. A settlement was built around this Gothic defensive structure, which grew into the current city.

The castle was first mentioned in written sources in 1361. Rebuilt several times, the castle lost its significance in 1408, when Kaunas was granted the rights of Magdeburg, and the entire life of the city moved to the then Market Square (Town Hall). In the 16th century a prison operated in the castle.

Currently, the Kaunas City Museum department operates in the castle and the city’s cultural events take place every year in the entrances – like last night for the Statehood celebrations as this morning a temporary stage is being dismantled.

In 2018 next to the castle, the Vytis sculpture – “Warrior of Freedom” – was unveiled, by sculptor Arūnas Sakalauskas, and artists Borisas Krylovas and Olesius Sidorukas from Ukraine.

Santaka Park, the heart of Kaunas, is located next to Kaunas Castle. Here the Nemunas and Neris rivers merge and there are a number of places to visit: an altar where pagan rites were performed; the Pope’s hill, where in 1993 Mass was celebrated by Pope John Paul II, and in 2018 by Pope Francis; a statue of Pope John Paul II, and St. George’s Church together with the Bernardine Monastery.

Next stop is Town Hall Square. Until the 16th century the Town Hall Square was famous as a market square. On July 28, 1542 the construction work of the Town Hall started and was controlled by architect Benediktas Chojnauskas. In 1638, during 1771 -1775 and 1836 reconstructions occurred, the last provided the residence for Russian czars.

Today it is used for the wedding ceremonies, official welcome of city guests, signing of agreements and official events and houses the Museum of Ceramics.

Besides it, the square is made up of: Siručiai Palace, now the Literary Museum; the Zabielai Family house; the Church of St. Francis Xavier and the Jesuit Monastery; the Communication History Museum and Kaunas Post Station buildings, and the Kaunas Holy Trinity Bernardine Church and Convent.

Now, the same as in the past, the Town Hall Square holds different events and fairs. There is a monument for the prominent romantic poet, Maironis, and bishop, Motiejus Valančius [keturiossostines.lt].

Beneath the Square near the entrance to the Town Hall, covered by a perspex frame, is an ancient wax melting furnace. When Grand Duke Vytautas granted Magdeburg Law he ceded Kaunas the right to own the scales, wax processing, and woolen cloth trimming facilities [datos.kvb.lt].

At the SE corner of the Square, is Aleksoto g. which leads to the Nemunas River bank. On this street is the House of Perkunas (House of Thunder).

Built by Hanseatic merchants at the end of the 15th century, this is one of the most original examples of Late Gothic secular architecture in Lithuania. The magnificent house is named for the thunder god Perkūnas, whose likeness was discovered during renovations in 1818.

During its time it served as a Jesuit chapel, a warehouse, a school and a Soviet repository and is now back in the hands of the Jesuits who use it for school art classes. Inside is a small exhibition dedicated to the life of the romantic poet Adam Mickiewicz (Adomas Mickevičius) as well as a gallery and concert space [inyourpocket.com].

Diagonally opposite is the Vytautas Magnus Church (Vytautas the Great Church) aka the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. This is oldest church in Kaunas, built in 1400. It is the only Gothic-style church with a cross-shaped plan in Lithuania.

According to historians, the Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautas was beaten up in battle with the Tatars at Vorskla and almost drowned in the river. Upon his rescue, to show his gratitude, Vytautas promised the Virgin Mary to build a church on the bank of the river. The church first referred to in documents in 1439 belonged to the Franciscans.

The waterfront at the Vytautas church was equipped with a marina so that sailboats could moor, and later steamers. In 1877 a Nemunas water level gauging station was established next to the church. Zero altitude is 20.8 meters above sea level [visit.kaunas.lt].

Also next to the gauge is a plaque indicating the height of the 1946 flood at 2.90m.

From here we return to Vilniaus g. where we stop for a coffee at Motiejaus Kepyklele, a bakery, because it’s in an old, red brick building. This pedestrianized street is part of the old medieval road to Vilnius. Many of the buildings along this road were wooden, later red brick houses of wealthy townspeople, some of which have survived to this day.

Here at No. 7 there was a wooden house which burned down, and on its ruins in the 16th century a brick Gothic-style building with ornate pediments on the east and west ends was built. After wars and fires, it was rebuilt in 1808, given to the Augustinian monks and then restored in 1984. In the middle of the building was the entrance to the courtyard.

At 1:45 pm it rains heavily and continues to rain until around 4:00 pm.

As we had such a good meal at Casa Della Pasta we return this evening and are greeted by our previous waitress, the lovely Eimanti. My saltimbocca is top-notch.

While I head back to the apartment, Lynn decides to shuffle the 2km along Vilniaus Street and Laisves Avenue (Freedom Avenue) to its end where the St. Michael the Archangel Church is located.

Along Laisves Aleja, opposite where we met up for the GuruWalk, is Kaunas State Musical Theatre. This is the building where not only professional Lithuanian drama, opera and ballet was born, but also where the Lithuanian state was created as during the interwar period the 1st meetings of the City Council and later of the Constituent Seimas were held here.

A small square theatre building was erected next to the City Square in 1892 for touring troupes and was designed by Kaunas province architect Justinas Golinevičius. As early as 1919 the first performances of the “National Theater” occurred here and from 1920 the drama and opera halls were established here too. In 1922, these were nationalized and the State Theatre was established. Various rebuildings from the interwar period to today have resulted in today’s building and its facilities [[teatraspastatas.lithuaniantheatre.com].

Today, the Kaunas State Musical Theatre is a repertoire theatre with as many as 30 different performances including operas, operettas, musicals, musical revues, concerts, dance performances, and shows for children [dance.lt].

Walking east along Laisves al. the imposing building of the St. Michael the Archangel Church looms larger.

In 1895 Russian Czar Alexander III ordered construction of the Orthodox Cathedral for the Kaunas fortress garrison expressing luxury and official status. A neo-byzantine-style building was specially designed for the centre of the square. The Sobor was designed by Russian architects and decorated by Petersburg artists.

In 1919 it was transformed into a Catholic St. Michael the Archangel church garrison. In 1965 the church became a stained glass and sculpture gallery. After the restoration of independence, the Catholic Church was operating again and its crosses reinstated. Church music concerts, performances by actors and exhibitions are regularly held here [tourist brochure].

Walking back up Laisves al. a prominent tower to the right becomes visible – Christ’s Resurrection Church (Kristaus prisikėlimo bazilika) – a striking modern church with soaring interiors and a roof terrace offering panoramic city vistas.

Laisvės Alėja is an important street in Naujamiestis (New Town), Kaunas,
and is 1 of the longest pedestrian streets in Europe – nearly 1.7 km long with an east-west orientation.

Walking down Laisvės Alėja reveals the unique and plentiful Kaunas interwar modernist architectural heritage. Kaunas remains probably the only city in the world where so many modernist, German Bauhaus-style buildings were built and still stand: the former Lithuanian Post, Kaunas State Musical Theatre, Bank of Lithuania, and many others. In September 2023 this area attained UNESCO World Heritage Listing [tourist brochure].

An interesting practice in the town is to drape buildings that are due for renovation with bespoke, fitted, painted canvases which gives an instant solution to eye-sore buildings.

A final view of Vilniaus g. before Lynn returns home.

Tomorrow we are only driving 100km to the capital, Vilnius, where we are staying on the edge of the Old Town at the Grotthuss Boutique Hotel – time will tell if that is the case.

8 July, 2024

‘Convoluted’ and ‘complicated’ pretty much sums up our ‘short’ journey from Kaunas to Vilnius. Just outside of Kaunas we have to negotiate a complicated roundabout system to get from the 140 to the A1, including crossing the river twice!

Then on the A1 extensive roadworks and finally, getting to the hotel, lots of ducking and diving down narrow streets only to find that where the GPS says “turn right” it’s a 1-way street going left!

It’s the usual transition driving into the city with modern buildings and shopping centres on the outskirts followed by rundown neighbourhoods then classical buildings as we come towards the centre.

Dominant on J. Basanavicaus g. is the Orthodox Church of St. Michael and St. Constantine, a Russian Orthodox church. It was built in 1913 to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty.

And we are quite surprised by the number of Soviet-era styled trolley buses that we come across.

We manage to arrive unscathed and have to park in a nearby car park as the hotel entrance is on a narrow, 1-way, cobbled street. And that is just the beginning of a series of ‘things that don’t work or don’t exist’. Perhaps the peeling paint on the outside of the hotel might have been a clue?

Firstly, we need a code to open the door to reception. At no time in the numerous friendly and helpful communications we’d had from the hotel was this mentioned.

The receptionist has only been here for a week and it is quite obvious that he hasn’t been trained properly and his youth precludes him from having a clue about hotel guest needs, experiences and expectations.

Despite the hotel approving our arrival time, our room is not going to be ready for another hour so we park the car in the shady courtyard and go in search of a damn fine coffee – just around the corner at the Moss cafe.

Next we walk to the Town Hall Square to the Tourist Information Centre in the Town Hall but we can’t see one. Instead there is a black and white photographic exhibition on display so we go upstairs to check it out.

The silver bromide prints of people going about their everyday lives seem to be taken during the 1960s. Curiously, one of the photos is of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre walking the dunes of Nida, Lithuania’s Curonian Spit resort in 1965.

Off the Square is Stikliu g., an intriguing, narrow, curved street with an angel at one end and large, single-stemmed blooms above.

‘Stikliu’ means glass and is part of the Glass Quarter. For more than 600 years, the quarter, which once occupied most of the current Old Town, was a Jewish residence, a town of goldsmiths, glassblowers, artisans and financiers.

The quarter still houses jewelers, shops and workshops of local artists, artisans, cozy restaurants, a chamber orchestra, art galleries and one of the oldest operating Stiklių hotels [www-govilnius-lt].

In an alleyway off Stiklių g. is ‘Dom Bow Ties’ with a interesting display of wares, including a fun black moustache bow tie!

From here we return to the hotel which takes us past a strip of parkland, the Square on German Street, and down Mesiniu g., one of the streets in what was the Jewish Quarter and ghetto. This quarter started at the end of the 16th century and occupied 3 streets of the city: Sinagogos, Mesiniu and Sv. Mikalojaus. Later Jews settled between Vokieciu and Stikliu, Didzioji and Dominikonu streets.

After the Russian Revolution (1917-18) thousands of Jews seeking refuge from pogroms flocked to Vilnius. After WWII the quarter had lost its inhabitants and most of its buildings.

We pass by the Jewish Centre of Culture and Information and some Jewish street art depicting a 20th century character.

When we return our room is ready in the new wing. The receptionist takes us there (avoiding the new lift as it isn’t operational at present), opens the door and leaves. Although it’s a beautifully-appointed room, it’s only when we try to turn on lights and the air con we realise that the new-fangled switches that require pressing rather than flicking have difficulty working or don’t seem to work at all.

It’s the height of summer (26 degrees today and will be hotter later in the week) but the underfloor heating in the bathroom is on. Where to turn it off? Who knows? The air con controller doesn’t respond then we’re told that if we want it cooler reception will have to do it via their computer. Ggggrrrr!!

The bar that is supposed to open at 5pm is locked. The advertised restaurant is only open for breakfast. The Wellness Centre is yet to be found. But we did come across some stylised, 2D traditional Lithuanian masks. This is the first time we’ve seen or heard of these.

At 6:00 pm we walk back to the Town Hall Square where we saw earlier a restaurant that served delicious-looking pizzas. Into ‘Maurizio’s’ we go where we tuck into a scrumptious Neapolitan pizza followed by stracciatella ice cream, a cannoli and finish with some delish limoncello.

Even the man himself, a Venetian, is in residence, firstly smoking by a red Fiat 500 then sitting at a front-row table for dinner.

9 July, 2024

We’re booked on another GuruWalk, this time of Vilnius Old Town, at 3:30 pm today and at 29 degrees it’s going to be a tad warm. At the appointed time a group of 14 of us meet in the shade of the statute of the Grand Duke Gediminas in Cathedral Square. Our guide, although very knowledgable and very fluent in English, chooses to talk at us for the next 2.5 hours, hardly drawing breath for any questions about the history of Lithuania, Vilnius, its various buildings, the city’s uniqueness and its culture.

So, below is a summary. Lithuania, since the 13th century, has had 4 capitals: Kernave, Trakai, Kaunas then Vilnius. The town’s unique features include its hills and forests that reach the town centre which is unusual for a medieval town. Compared to other towns of Eastern Europe it has 1 of the biggest Old Towns. Its 16th century 1-sq. km town was framed by a defensive wall – a large area for a medieval town. Today Vilnius Old Town occupies 3.5 ha. whereas the city as a whole covers 401 sq. km and is expanding.

While there are examples of almost all architectural styles, Vilnius is called “the town of baroque”. It’s the most northern town from the Alps where baroque is the dominant architecture – “Little Rome”.

Vilnius Old Town has been formed by its multicultural environment. From old times people of different nationalities, cultures or religions could find a safe haven in Vilnius. Today its 542,000 population comprises 57.8% Lithuanians, 18.7% Poles, 14% Russians, 4.0% Belarusians, 1.3% Ukrainians and 0.5% Jews. In 1994, for its uniqueness, the Old Town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Neris River divides the town into 2 parts – old and new. The town’s development started in the 14th century from the three castles – Upper castle, Royal palace and Crooked castle – and accelerated after being granted the Privileges of Magdeburg (self-government) by Grand Duke Jogaila in 1387 who later became of King of Poland (1386-1401) [vividvilnius.lt].

From here we walk to the nearby square of Simonas Daukantas (a graduate of Vilnius University and author of the 1st history of Lithuania published in the Lithuanian language in the 19th century) to view the Presidential Palace of the Republic of Lithuania.

From the 16th century, it served as a residence for Vilnius bishops. In the 18th century, when Lithuania was occupied and annexed to the Russian Empire, the palace served as a residence for the Governor-General of Vilnius. Russian Tsar Alexander I, French King Louis XVIII, Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, and Polish Marshall and statesman Józef Piłsudski visited the palace. In 1997, the building was renovated. Presently, the President of Lithuania and his Chancellery occupy the building, and leaders of other countries are received here [govilnius.lt].

We exit the square onto Universiteto g. then walk along an alleyway to a vantage point which overlooks the grounds at the rear of the Presidential Palace.

Further along we have a view of the Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit where our attention is drawn to the various Lithuanian representations of a cross – incorporating leaves, sun rays etc – i.e. not just a simple, basic cross but ones with flourishes.

Stikiliu g. is nearby which we walk down part way then branch off into Zydu gatve, the central artery of the historical Jewish quarter in Vilnius. Although it was severely damaged during WWII it retains elements that hint at the colorful past of its inhabitants before the war – the Great Synagogue stood here, 1 of the first public toilets in Vilnius that operated here and about the Vilna Gaon that worked here [www-jewish–heritage–lithuania-org].

The Gaon was Elijah ben Solomon Zalman (1720-97) who, through his annotations of Talmudic and other texts, became one of the most familiar and influential figures in rabbinic study since the Middle Ages [wikipedia].

Crossing Town Hall Square we exit via Saviciaus g. and descend a series of stairs to Maironio g. which runs along the Vilnia River. Here at Uzupio g. and its bridge we learn about the Republik of Uzupis.

Užupis is the smallest district in Vilnius and is separated from the Old Town by the Vilnelė River. Formerly a troublesome place in the early 1990s due to the home of the Lithuanian Russian Marfia who gradually returned to Russia by 1995, Užupis has grown into a neighbourhood of artists, intellectuals and entrepreneurs.

On 1 April 1997, residents of Užupis decided to somewhat sarcastically declare independence. An independent republic has to have money, power, an anthem and constitution, and above all, a free spirit. Apparently, all of this can be found in Užupis [govilnius.lt].

On the other side of the bridge there is a shop acting as the ‘Border Control’ where, alarmingly, you can have your passport stamped with the Republik’s stamp. How to invalidate your passport in 1, swift movement!

On the opposite side of the road is the Cathedral of the Theotokos. One of the oldest buildings in Vilnius it was built in 1346 during the reign of Grand Duke Algirdas for his Orthodox 2nd wife, Uliana of Tver. It was also the site of the marriage between Grand Duke Aleksandras of Lithuania and Helena of Moscow, daughter of Ivan III, which took place in 1495. Helena was later buried there in 1513.

Despite being damaged during WWII the cathedral was restored in 1948, although renovations were not completed until 1957 thanks in part to Soviet inefficiency. Today, the Cathedral belongs to the Russian Orthodox Church serving the ethnic Russian and Belarusian residents of Vilnius.

Weary, hot and with a growing thirst, the tour ends in Literatu g. just past 6:00 pm when I declare that it must be beer o’clock. We head to Stikliu g. and take an outside table at one of the restaurants in the very narrow M. Antokolskio g. that branches off Stikliu g.

Returning to the hotel we are surprised to find that the Terrace’s chairs now have cushions on them, the tables are occupied, the fairy lights are on and there is a bar service!

10 July, 2024

Another 29 degree day is predicted so we walk back to Cathedral Square to check out the Belfry, Cathedral, Ducal Palace and the Upper Castle that were mostly ignored on out Guru Walk yesterday.

As it turns out that there are stairs on the path up the Bastion to the Upper Castle, Lynn delegates to me the task of checking out the view from the top while she checks out the Belfry and Cathedral.

I am so over European Churches that I would gladly hike up a steep hill in the hot sun than visit yet another bloody church.

The Cathedral Basilica of St. Stanislaus and St. Ladislaus is built in the very centre of the city on the site of a former pagan temple and next to Vilnius’ defensive castle. Rebuilt several times as a result of frequent fires, wars and unstable foundations, the building currently reflects the Classicist style (architect Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius), but its walls have traces of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. On 4 September 1993, Pope John Paul II began his historic apostolic journey through Lithuania from this Cathedral [govilnius.lt].

A 57-m tall bell tower stands right by the cathedral and is one of the symbols of Vilnius. The history of the tower dates back to the middle of the 13th century. In the 16th century the defensive tower that stood here became a bell tower and got its current appearance at the beginning of the 19th century. The city’s oldest clock at the top of the tower chimes its bells to invite people to mass [govilnius.lt].

Meanwhile, I tackle the climb up the Bastian to Gediminas’ Castle Tower, the remaining fortification tower of the Upper Castle.

Lynn’s knee would not have managed the steep climb over uneven large cobbels and the washed out path. The easier path is currently closed while they resurface the cobbled track with a smoother concrete surface.

By the time I reached the summit I was hot and swetty but it was till much better than being dragged in to yet another church.

Legend has it that the Grand Duke Gediminas dreamt of an Iron Wolf howling at the top of this hill, which he took as a prophecy of the great city that would one day stand in this place. The hill is where he eventually built a wooden castle.

Grand Duke Vytautas completed the city’s first brick castle in 1409. Gediminas’ Tower has changed purposes since then, including being used as the city’s first telegraph building in 1838. The Lithuanian flag was first flown at the top of the tower a century ago. The Vilnius Castle Museum was opened in 1960. Since 1968 it has become a subdivision of the Lithuanian National Museum [govilnius.lt]

The 2nd floor of the Tower contains the interactive exhibition “Visual timeline: a look through the Windows of Gediminas Tower”, which invites visitors to experience an attack by Crusaders; they can also see what Renaissance Vilnius looked like and compare this image with a panorama of the Upper and Lower castles from 1785, a time when these buildings had already lost their political importance. This journey is an opportunity to experience the changes the city has gone through from the 14th to the 21st centuries – by both looking through the tower windows, then at the tower itself.

On the 3rd floor visitors can experience what it meant to stand in the Baltic Way – one of the most memorable of the big anti-Soviet demonstrations, when, in August 1989, close to 2 million people linked hands from Vilnius to Tallinn.

The Hill is one of the best places to see the panoramas of Vilnius. The red roofs of Vilnius, the church towers, and the narrow streets of the Medieval Old Town are a stunning sight.

Of course, the other stunning sight is of the bloody funicular that is on the other side of the Hill, out of sight from the Cathedral Square where most people would access the Hill! It would have been nearly 1km to circle around the hill to the funicular so maybe the steep climb was still the fastest way to the top. (Still better than going inside another church!).

Back at ground level we walk to the Ducal Palace and into its courtyard. A fortified wooden settlement existed on this site from the 4th-8th centuries. During the 13th and 14th centuries, it was converted into a well-fortified castle with brick walls. At the end of the 15th and the beginning of the 16th centuries, the Gothic-style castle of the Middle Ages was transformed into a luxurious Renaissance-style residence. During the 17th century, the palace was reconstructed in the early Baroque style, and the rulers of Lithuania and Poland who lived there amassed extensive collections of famous artworks and disseminated new cultural ideas throughout the country.

The political fates of not only Lithuania but also of all Central, Eastern, and Northern European countries were decided there. During the mid-17th century war with Moscow, the palace was devastated, never rebuilt, and never again a residence for rulers. At the end of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th centuries, all except the palace’s eastern wing was torn down on the orders of the Tsarist administration.

The idea of restoring the Renaissance palace in which the national art gallery would be housed emerged as early as 1983. 6 July 2018, the Coronation Day of Lithuanian King Mindaugas, marked the end of the reconstruction of the Palace. Since that day, all the museum’s spaces have been open to visitors.

En route to the Uzyoio neighbourhood we pass by St Anne’s, a Roman Catholic church in the Old Town, on the right bank of the Vilnia River established circa 1495–1500. It is a prominent example of both Flamboyant Gothic and Brick Gothic styles and has remained almost unchanged over the last five centuries. I managed to drag Lynn onward to avoid the entrance.

Next to the church stands a bell tower built in the 19th century, imitating the Gothic style [govilnius.lt].

We cross over the Vilnia River at the Malunu g. bridge into the Upuzis neighbourhood to find that filming that we saw in the Old Town yesterday is located here today.

In fact, its all happening in an apartment building in the square where the Angel of Uzupis is located. Potentially, it’s filming for the American TV series “Truth and Conviction” based on true, shocking events. Parts of Vilnius are being transformed into 1940s Hamburg.

En route to the square the path runs by the Vilnia River and the extensive Bernadinai Garden and Park.

Stairs take us up to a passageway called “Jono Meko skersvėjis” (John Meko’s draft) which features some very realistic street art and suspended handcrafted jellyfish decorations.

Walking down Uzupio g., past the Angel, we approach the bridge and the shop that also acts as the Border Control for the Republik of Uzupis.

Passing along Saviciaus g. the Bromas pub catches our eye as (1) it has a surfboard bolted to its wall and (2) it has a sign advertising ‘Prosecco on draught’.

As I return to the hotel, Lynn carries on up Didzioji g. to the Church of St Casimir which has an intriguing crown on 1 of its spires. Yeah, I managed to avoid more churches!

The Baroque Church of St. Casimir is the only church in Lithuania that was built according to the example of the Church of Jesus of Rome (Il Gesu). The church towers are decorated with a royal crown and three late Baroque artificial marble altars inside. Construction began in 1604 by Jesuits.

The church is dedicated to St. Casimir, canonised in 1602, and proclaimed heavenly Patron/guardian of Lithuania in 1636. St. Casimir was the son of the Grand Duke of Lithuania and King of Poland, Casimir. He was born on 3 October 1458 in Krakow and distinguished himself in spirituality and piety. He died of TB and was buried in the Vilnius Cathedral, in the chapel named after him.

In 1949, Soviet authorities closed the Church using it as a wine warehouse and none of its contents was preserved. The Church was returned to its congregation in October 1988 and is still open to Lithuanian Jesuits.

Just after 6:00 pm we walk around the corner to the ‘Georgian House’ and dine al fresco, once again. At least this Georgian food is on par with the excellent fare we had in Helsinki.

11 July, 2024

It is forecast to reach 31 Deg C today so I am more than happy to spend the day catching up on financial matters and other admin tasks while Lynn heads off early to visit the Bernadinai Park and Vilnius University before the city heats up.

Formerly called Sereikiškės Park by residents of Vilnius, Bernardine Garden is situated in the heart of Vilnius between Gediminas Hill, the Vilnelė River and the Bernardine Monastery. One special section of the park is the botanical exhibition, which commemorates the Vilnius University Botanical Gardens that once grew here in the 18th century and were the largest in Eastern Europe. Bernadine Garden is also home to the oldest oak tree in Vilnius, which is approximately 400 years old.

In 2013, the park was restored to its authentic 19th century environment and now features sunny meadows, a central square, a rosary and a rock garden with a pond designed by artist Alexander Strauss. The original name of the park, Bernardine Garden, was also reinstated [govilnius.lt].

Lynn says that sitting waiting for the ‘Dancing Fountain’ to reach its height, it was more like ‘Teasing Fountain’ as the jets would start and climb slowly and just when she thought it was there, the fountain would turn off! Then start again…

A 10-minute walk west from the Park is the University which Lynn accessed via a gated archway off Pilies g. then through 3 smaller, separate courtyards to arrive at this major one with a fountain.

Vilnius University was founded at a time when the Reformation movement was spreading in Lithuania and Jesuit monks were invited to fight the Reformation. The monks of the Jesuit Order quickly took education into their own hands. And founded a college in 1569 before establishing Vilnius University in 1579 [google.com].

Lynn has suggested, as an option, a restaurant for dinner tonight that she saw during her walk around this morning. It’s down by the river in the Bernadinai Park. It is still 31 Deg C outside as we head off. It must be a very nice restaurant to go hiking in this heat for over 20 minutes so I tag along, even though I know that it would take us this long to get there.

Well, it’s hot and sticky as we sit outside to order dinner from a QR code which I hate doing. There’s the odd bug about, a screaming child and a function adjacent to the restaurant that is about to pump out loud piano music. So far, not so good. The menu is very thin and it seems more like an ice cream parlour than a restaurant. We place our order for the only things that look edible and a couple of drinks. At least the beer is cold.

40 minutes later and we are still waiting for our food to arrive so Lynn heads off to find out when it will arrive. She is told that it will be another 15 minutes as they have a party of children that they are feeding. No thanks, it isn’t that nice of an eating establishment to wait an hour for food. We cancel the order and just pay for the drinks. I am far from happy after hiking in the heat for 20 minutes, waiting 40 minutes for ordinary food then having to hike up the hill back towards the hotel in the still very hot 31 Deg C.

We settle for a Beer House and Kitchen just around the corner from the hotel to see if the food and service is any better. Well, they have a better selection of cold beers, the place is air conditioned, the menu is extensive and the prices significantly better than the garden party cafe down by the river. The food is good and we are back at the hotel 5 minutes after we finish dinner. Much better idea. And that’s my rant for today.

Ahem … seems I failed to mention that as we walked past this restaurant at the beginning Lynn did say to me, “Or, we can just go here.”

12 July, 2024

While I’m mucking about on the computer this morning Lynn has located a nearby Maxima supermarket, a 5-minute walk away along Ligonines g. which becomes Visu Sventuju g. past a couple of parks.

Just before the supermarket is the market hall – Halės Turgus – the oldest marketplace still operating in Vilnius. In the 15th century, the site of the current marketplace was initially named the Horse Market then the Grain Market in the 16th century, when, after the city wall was built, it found itself in the suburbs.

In 1906, at the intersection of Pylimo and Bazilijonų Streets, a new market was erected, designed by Vilnius architect and engineer Vaclovas Michnevičius with help from local entrepreneur Petras Vileišis. Only in 1914 did the name Halės Market take over from the Grain Market.

The market’s roof and modern form, completed in 1906, coincided with the metal structures – bridges, towers, and railway stations – sprouting up across in Europe at the time. Halės is a relative and a peer of the famous Krakow and Budapest Markets, and rests on a metal frame
similar to the Eiffel Tower. The building has stood for more than 100 years as Halės Market [govilnius.lt].

Today’s Friday market is busy – not so much inside the Hall with its long counters and small shops, but rather around its edges with crowded flower, fruit, vegetable and clothing stalls and even on the footpath where a couple of individual ladies are standing with a few vegetables at their feet, waiting for a cash sale.

After last night’s fiasco we agree to walk down Mesiniu g., past the Beer House and Kitchen to the strip of park next to the Town Hall. Here we have found another Casa della Pasta. Does not disappoint.

13 July, 2024

According to Google maps, this morning we have a 2-hour, 148 km north-easterly drive ahead of us mainly on the A14 then near Utena the A6 to Zarasai. The A6 section looks like we are driving through a previous glaciated area with the road threading past lots of small lakes, similar to driving in parts of Canada. Zarasai is itself located on Zarasas Lake.

Just before we cross the main bridge over the Neris River in Vilnius we notice a high-rise building ahead of us with a very large sign displayed at its rooftop: “PUTIN, THE HAGUE IS WAITING FOR YOU.”

As with Kaunas, it’s convoluted and chaotic to exit Vilnius and, as soon as we get on the A14, it’s quite noticeable again how pot-holed and patched this Lithuanian highway is, at which point I comment: “This road needs a decent layer of bitumen on it before the concrete layer is breached and becomes damaged.” Me and my big mouth … !

26 km north, near Radziuliai, we pass a road sign that says: “Geografinis Europos centras” – Geographical Centre of Europe. 12 minutes later it starts to rain with the skies around us laden with storm clouds.

20 minutes after that, just as we cross over a roundabout near Kemetiskiai, there is a “No entry” sign across the highway (so like France!) so we have to leave the roundabout at the next exit onto the 114 then we follow the cars in front of us up a dirt road, parallel to the A14 – there are no diversion signs anywhere – as it joins the A14 about 700m away.

Wrong! That roadway onto the A14 is also blocked so we drive to the next entrance a further 600m away.

And from here to where we eventually leave the A14 at the 208 which bypasses Utena, some 30 km, we are repeatedly driving on muddy, rutted and pot-holed surfaces in torrential rain for 2km stretches before we have to pull over at a traffic light that takes forever to change before we bounce for yet another 2 km stretch.

So long in fact, that given the conditions, the convoy doesn’t get through before the lights at the other end change then there’s incidences of lorries having to reverse as another lorry is coming through, etc. Total chaos! But we had to laugh when, just as we come to the end of the roadworks, a Maserati drives past us going in the opposite direction!

It appears that the road builders have taken on too much road length in a single task. The road build is falling apart before it can be finished. Absolute chaos!

And we come to the conclusion that the small lakes aren’t due to a glaciated past, it’s due to torrential rain! So, that little escapade delayed us 1 hour 45 minutes. Instead of arriving at the apartment at 1:30 pm, we arrive at 3:15 pm.

We dump our bags then drive to a nearby supermarket for supplies.

We must be close to Russia (well, Belarus actually, 35 km away), as the price of vodka is cheap compared to Brisbane BWS prices – at least half the price for a litre. And there is a far greater choice of vodkas, real Russian vodkas, in fact.

Speaking of alcohol, we make a bee-line for a nearby restaurant, Restoranas Monopolis on Seliu Square, and are pleasantly surprised that the austere entrance conceals the large verandah out back that has a view of the lake and a cool breeze. Nothing like a cold beer, Martini Rosso cocktail, good food and service and a view thrown in to revive the spirit.

Back at the apartment we put on 3 loads of washing in the miniscule washing machine – miniscule so that it can fit inside the miniscule bathroom. In fact, the bathroom is so compact that the basin sits on top of the washing machine! There is no drying rack so we resort to using the multitude of wire coathangers to hang our clothes to dry.

Since we booked this apartment back in early January we’ve had misgivings about it but it seemed to be the best of a bad lot that offered free, onsite parking and a washing machine in this lake district town.

Sure enough, it’s like showering in a cigar tube as the shower cubicle is so narrow; you have to step out of the bathroom into the hallway to dry off as the bathroom is so small and compact; there are no black out curtains and no airconditioning or fan. We leave the windows ajar overnight to get some cool air only to be subjected to a constant barrage of a nearby ‘doof doof’ beat way beyond 2:30 am.

14 July, 2024

After a late breakfast we decide that we will resort to Plan B – book into a nearby hotel and only use the apartment for breakfast and laundry. A short stroll to the cafe attached to the Brut Winery Hotel (has to be good!) for a coffee, we make enquiries and, as the hotel is fully booked tonight, we book its last remaining room for the following 2 nights.

About this time we learn of the assassination attempt on Trump’s life during a rally in Pennsylvania. The suspect’s surname is Crooks. Crikey! I wonder if he’s a distant relative???

Zarasai – 7 lakes and an island, hills, rivers, and a forest, plus the town is surrounded by more than 300 lakes, with some of them being the biggest in the whole of Lithuania – Drūkšiai, Sartai and Luodis. Some people also call this town Lithuania’s “Little Switzerland” because of its lakes and Lithuanian hills.

Zarasai town was known from the end of the 14th century. Originally, it was the place where an ancient Baltic tribe Sėliai used to live. Nowadays, Zarasai is a resort town located in NE Lithuania and is very well-known for its aquatic tourism [livetheworld.com].

So, after coffee we stroll down the hill to the lake’s edge for a view of the water jet and the lake’s Great Island beyond.

While there we come across a rather lovely sculpture of a local photographer. Moisiejus Botvinikas (1901-1984) was the 1st photographer in Zarasai who captured thousands of images of the Zarasai region and its people.

He also introduced modern technology to Zarasai as in 1928 he also opened the 1st electrical goods store where local people could buy radios, luxury items at that time. Botvinikas served as a volunteer in the Lithuanian army and fought in the Lithuanian independence war (1919-1920). In early 1941 he was deported by the Soviets to Siberia, and in 1955, after 14 years, his family returned to Zarasai and Moisiejus continued to work as a photographer. In 1972 he emigrated to Israel [jewish-heritage-lithuania.org].

After collecting the car back at the apartment we drive across the bridge to Great Island. There are lots of people about enjoying the weekend sunshine and the island’s facilities – glamping, water park, cable skiing, beach volleyball, swimming, canoeing, restaurants and cafes, to mention a few. However our planned route to the centre of the island is hindered by scaffolding – looks like a rally is due to happen soon.

Instead, we decide to do a quick circumnavigation of the lake by car which takes about 15 minutes. Stopping at the view point on the A6 …

… which overlooks the lake and nearby Putinu Sala (Snow Island) and in the distance, Great Island and the twin spires of the church.

3 km up the road near the entrance to town is the Observation Wheel/Bridge/Circle, opened in 2011, similar to the couple we saw in the Scandies. This observation bridge, designed by architect Šarūnas Kiaunė, is a feature of the town and its architecture is unique in Lithuania. From the 17m-high bridge are panoramic views of the lake, islands and parts of town.

The bridge curves around and down to a stairway which leads to a pier and also to the lake path, about a kilometre long. It’s a perfect place for swimming and picnicing in summer, and in winter, “it perfectly suits to the long and slow walks, with a tea and hot chocolate in the hands.” [livetheworld.com].

Back in town I drop Lynn off at the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a Neo-Baroque style church built on the highest place of the town. As previously stated I an so over these European Churches.

The history of the present church’s construction is long and complicated, from 1830s to 1874, with stoppages due to technical problems and construction faults. Such a complicated history perhaps explains its architecture, slightly eclectic and unusual, where one can see Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Baroque and Neo-Classical forms. The rectangular volume of the church, ended with a smooth wall and covered by a pitched roof, is close to Lithuanian churches of Classicism style [architekturalietuvoje.lt].

Above the main altar a semicircular window is cut, where the historic St. Virgin Mary painting “Madonna with Child” with inscribed Latin text is placed. An inscription tells that the picture was brought here from Vilnius and hung here to remind of its miraculous rescue from a huge fire [visitzarasai.lt]

After doing my ironing Lynn updates the blog. Tonight we return to the verandah of the Monopolis Restaurant. Lynn informs me that, being half Brit, at 10:00 pm this evening she will be watching the UEFA Euro Final – England vs Spain. Have fun as I’ll be asleep – now with ear plugs in addition to my powder-blue eye mask.

15 July, 2024

Besides the lakes there aren’t much more to see in Zarasai. Other tourist suggestions include 2 locations out of town – Daugavpils and Stelmuze. Today we are going to 2 sites in the nearby town of Daugavpils which is 27km NE away and is actually located in Latvia.

Daugavpils, the 2nd largest city in Latvia, is located on the banks of the Daugava River in the SE, 232 km away from Riga. The city has changed its name several times: Dinaburg (1275 – 1656; 1667 – 1893), Borisoglebsk (1656 – 1667), Dvinsk (1893-1920), Daugavpils (from 1920).

The 1st site to visit is Dubrovin Park, named after its creator Pavel Dubrovin (1839–1890) and city mayor from 1876 to 1890. The next site is the impressive Daugavpils Fortress.

The origins of the city’s history dates back to the Middle Ages, when Dinaburg Castle was founded in 1275 by Ernst von Ratzeburg, the Master of the Livonian Order, on a trade route on the borders of Russian and Polish lands.

In 1577, the Russian army of Ivan the Great conquered the castle but it was destroyed during the Livonian War. However, the border post, where the interests of Russia and Poland crossed and which was reached by the Swedes at times, could not be left unfortified.

Therefore Ivan the Terrible started to build a new fortress 19 km down the Daugava River from the old castle.

In 1810, following the intensification of Russia’s relations with France, it was decided, with Russian Emperor Alexander I’s approval, to rebuild the small Dinaburg Fortress into a first-class fortress in preparation for Napoleon’s invasion.

By the beginning of the war in 1812, the construction works had not yet been completed but Napoleon’s attacks were still repelled. Hence the subject of Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture. After the war, the construction of the fortress continued, with consecration in 1833 and construction works completed in 1878 [daugavpils.lv].

The Fortress’s miliary use continues until 1993. During WWI the 5th headquarter of the Imperial Russian Army is located here at the end of 1917. During 1918-20 the Fortress is temporarily occupied by Bolshevik, German and Polish military forces.

1941-44 the Nazis arranged a Jewish ghetto and a camp for Soviet prisoners of war in the fortress territory “STALAG 340”. Finally, during 1948- 1993 the Daugavpils Military School of aviation engineers was established in the fortress precinct.

Its civilian life commenced in 2011 when the Fortress Culture and Information Centre was established in the reconstructed water tower building.

2013 was a busy year with the Daugavpils Mark Rothko Art Centre/Museum opened in the reconstructed artillary arsenal building (painter Mark Rothko was born in Daugavpils at the time of the Russian Empire); the regional department of the Latvian State Police moved into the repaired premises of the former Commandant’s House, and the Nicholas Gate reconstruction was finished [Walking around Daugavpils Fortress – brochure].

Initially, we access the Fortress precinct through the extensive casement and drive to the former Commandant’s House, now the Latvian State Police regional HQ. We are taken by the vastness of the complex with row upon row of barracks, both derelict and now renovated buildings, which surround a rectangular park in front of the Commandant’s House.

Thinking that we had seen the extent of the Fortress we take the exit route through another casement and turn onto the P67. It’s only then that we realise that the ‘official’ access to the Fortress is on this road, facing the river so we park and enter via the imposing Nicholas Gate. This gate is 1 of 4, namely: Alexander (N), Constantine (W), Nicholas (S) and Michael (SE).

Exiting the town over the Daugava River we are confronted with a stark reminder of this town’s Soviet occupation. Situated near the confluence of the Daugava and Laucesa rivers, the monument was unveiled on 5 July 1975 as part of the celebrations to mark the 700th anniversary of the city of Daugavpils. The site for the 7m-high monument was chosen because it was here that one of the bloodiest battles of the Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920) took place on 27-28 September 1919 [kathmanduandbeyond.com].

There is no plaque or information board to be found. A clue might be the article that appeared in Le Monde on 6 July 2022, “In Latvia, Soviet monuments are in danger of being taken down.” Apparently the Latvian parliament planned to submit a list of 69 buildings and memorial plaques to be dismantled or relocated. But the move offended the country’s Russian-speaking minority.

in the Baltic States, all of whom unconditionally support Ukraine, the public’s attention has focused since the beginning of the conflict on the imposing Soviet memorials erected to the glory of the soldiers fallen during the “Great Patriotic War.” In some cases, monuments were vandalized, tagged with the colors of the Ukrainian flag, or even disappeared [lemonde.fr].

Both on entry to, and exit from, Daugavpils we are also confronted with its stark prison complex which was built in 1810.

Time to leave!

Similar to the other side of town, yet another sign for Zarasai in the form of a sail boat.

It’s now around 2:30 pm so we call into the apartment to collect our gear to take around the corner to the Brut Wine Hotel for check-in at 3:00 pm.

On the fact of it, the apartment building looks reasonably new and modern.

It isn’t until you step through the outer door that you realise that the exterior of the building is a shell or facade, hiding its Soviet origins. There are several apartment buldings in this area, all the same.

In contrast, the renovated Brut Wine Hotel, cafe and restaurant.

After checking into our room which is modern, clean, with a reasonably-sized bathroom and ice cold air conditioning, we go downstairs to the cafe for dinner.

The cafe/delicatessen is very impressive and stylish with high-quality local food and alcohol offerings, gift packs, pates, olives, olive oils, chocolates, gelato, coffee, breads, cakes and pastries.

Speaking to the owner’s lovely daughter she mentions that not only do they have the cafe, restaurant and hotel (with plans for an extension) they also have a winery and distillery with products made from fruits and berries. Their brand has a stylised horse’s head and called Gintaro Sino.

When we visited here yesterday we were taken by the lovely smell of hot pizzas, which is what we both order, only to find that they are frozen supermarket pizzas, reheated! Plus, we are asked what sauce we want. We look at each other quizzically and reply, “Tomato”. Sure enough, we get a pot of ketchup to add to our pizzas at which point we both say, “How Lithuanian”. And, adding insult to injury – or should I say injury to insult – while eating said pizza I lose part of 1 of my back teeth.

Think we’ll visit the only other restaurant in town for dinner tomorrow evening.

16 July, 2024

30 degrees yesterday, 31 degrees predicted today so after breakfast back at the apartment we jump in the car and drive to the post office to see if they have Zarasai postcards. No, so around the corner to the Tourist Information Centre which does. We are also given some places to visit today such as the Slyninka Water Mill.

After commenting to the young guy manning the Centre that practically everyone young person that we meet in the Baltic States all speak very good English. “Do you learn it in school?” Lynn asks. “No, since a kid I picked it up reading comics, watching the Cartoon Network on TV and playing video games.” No need for an expensive subscription to Babel, then.

Back at the PO we write our 2x cards, buy stamps and post them off to my daughters and their families.

Our next port of call is 15 minutes’ drive north to the village of Stelmuze to see its oak tree (Stelmužės ąžuolas). The Stelmužė oak is a Lithuania natural monument, 1 of the oldest oak trees in Europe and the oldest tree in Lithuania. It is believed that the age of the oak is 1000 – 1500 or even 2000 years. The oak is 23m in height, 3.5m in diameter and 13m in girth at ground level (8-9 men are needed to fully embrace the trunk).

On a nearby information board there is a copy of a drawing of the tree in 1553. Even then the oak looked ancient.

“Stelmužė oak – is a tree which has seen a lot during his life. Lithuanian dukes, crusaders, Knights of the Sword, Swedish armies have been here. Kaiser and Hitler armies passed by this place. A human skeleton and a French rifle found in the hollow suggests that it probably was a hiding place of one of the Napoleonic soldiers, when he was on his way from Russia” [visitzarasai.lt].

Our last stop is the Slyninka Water Mill (Slyninkos vandens malunas), on the other side of the lake from Zarasai. En route we pass by Stelmuze Lake (Stelmuzes ezeras) which is a fishing paradise with the usual suspects like pike, perch, catfish and eel. In fact, a total of 20 types of fish are listed on the zvejogidas-lt website along with the length and no. of units you are allowed to catch. Some of the other fish listed are: Rope, Heat, Whip It, Radish, Goofy and, worryingly, Schoolgirl!?

In this area of Lithuania we’ve seen the most number of nesting storks and, since we first arrived in the Baltic States 7 weeks ago, those fluffy stork chicks are now the same size as their parents, all standing around the rim of their huge nests.

Other signs of summer are hay bales in the fields, pale yellow fields that have been stripped of their grain, impassable tractors on the road…

15 minutes later we arrive at the Mill, only to find that it’s closed today. So much for Tourist Centre information! But the owners kindly let us wander around.

It’s an historic working mill, a 300-year-old technical heritage building with authentic equipment producing national heritage flour, semolina, and bran.

Next to the mill, when it is open, the house of crafts will offer national heritage rye, wheat bread, various baked goods, and ancient dishes made from flour milled here accompanied by herbal tea, bread gira (soda drink made from fermented brea) and Lithuanian beer [visitzarasai.lt].

We’re back at the hotel around 2:30 pm and glad to get out of the 31 degree heat. After Lynn catches up the blog for the past 2 days we head out to dine at the remaining gig in town, the “Restobazar”, over the road from the Church.

After a 30-minute wait our orders arrive: my succulent steak sandwich between 2 slices of fried bread and Lynn’s pulled pork nachos starter. These are followed by a slice of apple pie and ice cream which I’ve been looking forward to as you don’t often see apple pie on Baltic dessert menus. But, surely not drizzed with chocolate sauce! What is it about sauces that the Lithuanians just don’t understand??

Tomorrow we will have to set an alarm so that we don’t sleep in again as we have a 5 hour drive completely across Latvia to a small valliage just on the Estonian side of the border.