28 October, 2023

Steyr, our next destination, is 140 kms away in Austria. We drive out of the parking garage at 10:00 am on a cloudy, sunny but chilly 11 Deg. C. day and head towards the border where we need to buy an Austrian 10-day vignette for its road tolls.

As we approach the petrol station where we believe we can buy one, we come across another place that advertises Austrian and Slovak vignettes. Naturally, it is closed. So, 50 metres further on we stop at the petrol station.

No mucking around with using a kiosk. I buy one over the counter but this time it is a sticker than I then adhere to the top left corner of the windscreen. We’re in business!

Immediately on the other side of the border we drive through a village called ‘Wullowitz’ and have a chuckle.

The scenery immediately changes to distant hills, mown meadows, neat and clearly-marked highways, tidy houses and farms and no graffiti so we know that we are no longer in Czechia.

Although we arrive early and park in front of the hotel on the historic cobblestoned Stadtplatz, our room is ready so the receptionist gives me a map, a ticket and directions to park at the parking garage across the river plus the room key.

We take the bags upstairs then drive to the garage and walk back via the Ennssteg bridge, stopping at a cafe on the square for a toastie.

Where we came across this definition on one of the menu pages: “snaccident – accidentally just eat more”. We’ve all been there!

As it’s such a brilliant day we decide to leave the packing until later and follow the map which has 2 walking tours on it, and do both of these.

The walk starts in the Stadtplatz, the city square and main street, bordered by amazing historic architecture.

The first point of interest is the Town Hall, one of Austria’s most significant Rococo monuments. It was built by Gotthard Hayberger mayor and municipal Judge of Steyr between 1765-1778. The 4 Baroque female statues on the balustrade symbolize the powers held by the municipality at the time. Justice (scales and sword), penal law (chained foot with ball), clerical patronage (censer) and Roman law (book in hand).

Opposite is the Bummerlhaus, the town’s landmark and one of Austria’s best preserved Gothice buidings. Part of the building dates back to the 13th century. In the 19th century the building accommodated the “Zum Goldenen Lowen” Inn. To this day its sign still features a lion The inn’s patrons were so fond of the lion they called it “Bummerl” (small, corpulent dog). So eventually the Bummerl Inn bcame the Bummerlhaus.

In the middle of the square is Leopold Fountain. It dates from the second half of the 17th century and the sculpture that crowns it depicts St Leopold, Austria’s patron saint. Before canonization he was Leopold III, known as Leopold the Good, Margrave of Austria from 1095 until his death in 1136 and was a member of the House of Babenberg.

After total destruction during the 1727 town fire, the Sternhaus was reconstructed with a facade in late Baroque style. It owes its name to the golden star held by 2 birds of prey above the portal, a symbol of the iron trade for which Steyr was famous.

The Meditzhaus is located opposite the Sternhaus. Named after its former owner it boasts an elaborate Baroque facade and one of Steyr’s most magnificent courtyards. The courtyard is surrounded on 3 sides by picturesque arcades and Tuscan columns (closed today). The wide passageways leading down to the Enns River indicate that courtyards served as trading places that had to be accessible by horse-drawn vehicles.

At the end of the Stadtplatz is a small square known as the Zwischenbrucken (intermediate bridges) as it is at the confluence of the Enns and and Steyr Rivers over which are 2 bridges at right angles to each other. Here there is a column showing flood levels over the centuries with the 2002 flood being the 3rd highest level, behind the highest one on 14 July 1572.

Remains of an old wooden bridge are still evident where the Steyr River joins the Enns. The bridge would wash away regularly so to manage the Steyr River flows a weir was constructed and later a modern concrete and steel bridge build above the flood levels.

Taking the Northern Loop we cross Steyr Bridge to Michaelerplatz and the Michaelerkirche, the twin-towered Baroque church built between 1635-1677. The gable between the 2 towers features a fresco of St Michael depicting the fall of the angels.

At the church Lynn heads inside for the usual picture while I enjoy the afternoon sunshine. I am a bit over the massive number of expensively built European churches that seem to have more tourist visitors than congregation. Perhaps people know these days that you can’t buy a stairway to heaven.

The altarpiece shows the Archangel MIchael’s victory over Lucifer.

Turning left from the church’s doorway, parallel to the Enns River, we walk through a tunnel where we find a lift up to the Taborturm, now a restaurant, and a small viewing platform in front. Originally, the 15th century tower was part of the town’s fortification, later it was used as a fire lookout tower.

From here we walk along Taborweg bordered by a high wall protecting the extensive cemetery on the other side. Down numerous stairs we come to Fabrikstrasse where this house, clothed in rich autumnal colours, borders a stream.

Further on is the Steyr River upon which is the Arbeitswelt Museum, the revitalised 19th century factory complex which used to be a former knife then armaments factory, with its distinctive short chimneys.

We cross over the Museumssteg then walk along the footpath along the Steyr River back to the Zwischenbruken square.

Here we pick up the Southern Loop which takes us under a Gothic archway where the cobbled roadway leads to an entrance to the Lamberg Schloss. The fresco above the archway depict the 2 Habsburg emperors Friedrich III and his son Maximilian. Legend has it that these 2 knights were the founders of the town of Steyr.

We walk up the stairs through the entrance to the Schloss and soon come to its courtyard. First mentioned in a document in 980, of the original fortress only the castle keep has survived. The castle attained its highest status in the 11th century as the residence of the Otakars. The entire edifice was destroyed in the great fire of 1727 and rebuilt as a stately Baroque castle by Count Lamberg.

In the corner of the courtyard is a long passageway which spans a grassy moat, complete with 2 curly-horned mountain goats (no bears here). ,

This leads to an open porch which is the entrance to the Schloss from its gardens.

Strolling through the gardens past the Orangerie, Palmenhaus (Palm House) and Vogelhaus (Aviary) we come to the Werndl monument at the commencement of the Handel-Mazzetti-Promenade. Josef Werndl (1831-1889) was often praised as the “Saviour of Steyr” and “Father of Workers”. He founded the “Osterreichische Waffen-fabriksgesellschaft” (Austrian Weapons Company) and, together with Karl Holub, designed the breech-loading rifle. In 1935 the factory merged with the Steyr-Daimler-Puch-AG. To honour Werndl’s services to the town, Victor Tilgner created this life-size statue which was unveiled in 1894.

Down some steps we arrive at the Stadtpfarrkirche Hl. Agydius and Kolomann, (City Parish Church of St Agydius and Kolomann). Also called Steyr Minster the church was built between 1443 and 1522 and was erected during the most prosperous time of Steyr to replace the old Romanesque church. The 80m-high tower (which we can see from our hotel window) was destroyed in a fire and rebuilt in neo-Gothic style (1885-1889).

Inside, the high altar was built in 1857 in memory of the unsuccessful assassination attempt on Emperor Franz Joseph. Anton Bruckner, “God’s musician” loved Steyr and often visited the town. He frequently spent his summer holidays in the parish house where he composed parts of his 8th and 9th symphonies. One of his favourite instruments was the Chrisman organ in this church. A monument to him is outside the church.

As we are walking down Pfarrgasse see some old clocks in a window which became an arcade of old clocks and clock mechanisms, complete with original, ornate shop signs.

Tonight we booked a table (being that it is Saturday) at the restaurant next door to the hotel. The food is so much better that the Czechian food quality that we have endured this past couple of weeks.

29 October, 2023

Daylight savings ended last night which meant we had an extra hour’s snooze this morning.

Another sunny day so we decide to walk up Kircheng and Gleinkergasse from the Michaelerkirche to view the Schnallentor Gate.

On the way we pass various shops including this bakery.

Lebzelterhaus in its current form dates back to around the middle of the 16th century. The facade shows the year 1567. Gingerbread, mead and wax candles were sold in the house until 1957 and were manufactured there until the middle of the 19th century. Today it houses a cafe.

After a sustained uphill walk we finally come to the Schnallentor Gate. Formerly it was part of the town fortifications and a tollgate, schnalle being the name of an old coin.

We retrace our steps from yesterday and end up at the Arbeitswelt Museum cafe for a coffee while watching the Steyr River pass by then return to the hotel via the Museumssteg footbridge and Stadtplatz.

While I go upstairs Lynn ventures across the road to the Marienkirche. In the late 15th century Dominican monks established a monastery and church in this place which were completely destroyed by floods and fire in the 16th century. The church was rebuilt in the mid-17th century in early Baroque style.

Between 1774 and 1778 the church was renovated with a remarkable Rococo interior. The towers were also redesigned during this time. The mighty high altar with the artistically valuable statue of the Virgin Mary, the pulpit full of figures and a new organ were also installed during this time.

It’s now dark and time to go downstairs to the onsite TexMex restaurant. Great that we don’t have to venture far for dinner again today.

30 October, 2023

All day we have been battling with an unreliable internet connection. We have one last booking to do and we are still having some issues with HSBC to sort out despite their continued promises to resolve the issues and call us back. They never do!

It has taken us all afternoon to do an hour’s worth of work. Luckily the weather outside is cold and damp and we have pretty much walked the town twice in the past two days.

Lynn finally gives up on the internet and calls HSBC. At least she is now speaking to someone who can speak English and seems to know what to do. However, nothing is achieved and again Lynn is promised that someone will call her back once they know how to resolve the issue. Don’t hold your breath.

As it is Monday most of the restaurants in town are either closed or only serve drinks and snacks. We head out about 6:00pm in the cold and wet and finally find an Asian Restaurant which is open. We have some pretty good Thai food (for Lynn) and I have some sweet and sour chicken.

31 October, 2023

It is bucketing down outside this morning. The plan today is to go to Graz where we are staying at our friends’ Guesthouse just a little to the NE of Graz. We stayed here at Felix and Ingrid’s Landgasthof Riegerbauer back in the summer of 2015 for a week.

But first, since we are heading from Steyr to Graz we decide to stop in at Thal (NW of Graz) to visit the Arnold Schwarzenegger Museum.

We get away at 10:15am in the rain and 10 Deg. C. It should take us 2 hours and 15 minutes to drive to Thal.

Around 11:30 am the temperature drops to 7 Deg. C. and we can see why. Along the top of the hills that border the roadway we can see snow.

Thanks to roadworks and wet driving conditions we arrive at the Museum at 12:40 pm which gives us just under an hour and a half before it closes at 2:00 pm for half an hour for staff lunch break.

Thal is where Schwarzenegger was born and grew up as a farm boy before embarking on his amazing career as a world champion body builder, a movie star and finally the Governor of California.

The museum is the former forester’s lodge of Counts Herberstein which is in a small village surrounded by fields with a nearby lake and castle ruins.

The numerous exhibits show his extraordinary CV and also the most important phases of his life such as childhood and youth, bodybuilding, film career and time as a governor of California.

Viewing a TV documentary about his life a couple of months ago prompted us to visit the museum as it was on our way to Graz.

According to the receptionist, we weren’t the only ones. This past summer since the documentary aired, the museum was getting 200-300 people per day! The car park only caters for about 8-10 cars. Apparently the neighbours were getting a bit antsy with all the traffic!

We practically have the place to ourselves.

But, if we had been here 3 days ago, we would have bumped into the man himself! He paid a surprise visit to the museum with his current girlfriend.

Less than an hour later we are on the road again and head to the village of Sankt Johann bei Herbertstein, the location of the Riegerbauer guesthouse. After a short delay as we join the autobahn due to an “unfall” (accident) we arrive at the 1652 guesthouse bang on 3:00 pm as planned.

Soon we are seated in the authentic, wood-panelled restaurant with Felix and Ingrid, catching up over a couple of glasses of excellent red wine.

Since we last stayed here in 1 of the only 2 rooms (suites) available, we are now shown to one of the new apartments next door. They now have 10 ‘rooms’ available.

Ours is a corner, split-level apartment with entrance hall, kitchenette/dining room and upstairs a bathroom, double and single rooms. It’s called Kirchenblick – Church View – which we can see from the small balcony and lounge room windows.

From the front window is the view we remember well, looking out over the beer garden and the vineyards and valley below.

At 6:00 pm we all jump in the car and drive 20 kms to Gleisdorf to a restaurant owned by the business partner of their eldest son. Their eldest son is also named Felix and, like his old man, is also a chef. On the way we see parents and kids out going door to door trick or treating as it’s Halloween. After an excellent meal we return to the guesthouse and hit the sack.

1 November, 2023

What a glorious morning! The sun is shining and the fog in the valley gradually disperses.

When we were last here we were lucky enough to observe a wedding reception held at the guesthouse and in its beer garden. The wedding was in the church down the road so this morning we walk down there as we’ve not been inside before.

It’s All Saints Day today, a holiday, where families visit graves and it seems that there was a service this morning as the smell and fog of incense inside the church is still strong.

Surprisingly, considering it’s now 1 November, the leaves have not turned, nor fallen, from the local vines.

Back at the guesthouse we stroll through the small beer garden, reminiscing about the hot summer’s week we spent here looking out over the valley, watching the evening hot air balloons float by and the oompah band that played at the wedding.

Ingrid manages the accommodation side of the business while Felix Jnr the restaurant and catering business assisted by his younger brother, Andreas.

We catch up with Ingrid this afternoon while she’s waiting for 4 check-ins to arrive and this evening we are booked into the restaurant for dinner at 6:00 pm. Felix Jnr and his family are away on holidays this week so Andreas will be doing the honours as Head Chef.

2 November, 2023

Although we wake to a sunny day it doesn’t take long for the clouds to gather. Rain is forecast for later this evening and all day tomorrow. So, we decide to venture out for a short drive to the nearby town of Stubenberg, Felix’s childhood home.

While there, we check out the town’s parish church in the town’s centre.

Similar to the parish church in the village of St Johann, it also has an elaborate, Baroque interior associated with catholic churches.

Once again we catch up with Ingrid for about an hour this afternoon, then we are joined by Felix while we have a modest dinner in the restaurant of soup and Apfelstrudel followed by an early-ish night.

3 November, 2023

As predicted, it rains throughout the night and we are wakened by the pitter-patter of raindrops on the windows. Which suits us fine as we are pretty much caught up and don’t plan to go anywhere today while our laundry is being done.

A ‘rinse and repeat’ day – for our laundry and us – as we meet up again with Ingrid and Felix this afternoon and dine in the restaurant tonight.

Since it is now November and a Friday night the restaurant is set up with a fixed 5-course meal by candle light for the locals but we have a special meal that is much lighter for us and the usual excessive beers with Felix.

Tomorrow we’ll bid them a fond farewell then drive to Bratislava in Slovakia.

4 November, 2023

We wake up to a thick blanket of fog this morning. We are not checking out until noon so we have a leisurely breakfast before we pack up and load the car. By this time the fog has cleared to a beautiful sunny day for our drive to Bratislava, Slovakia.

Before we depart we say our farewells to Felix and Ingrid and make promises to catch up somewhere in the world in the next few years.

By midday we are in the car and on the road for the 2 hour 15 minute trip to Bratislava.